Gender-inclusive Beauty Trends – When Procter & Gamble sponsored the first “soap opera” in the 1920s, promoting its scented soaps to female housewives, cross-gender beauty products took a serious shower—and they haven’t left since. But a century later, many people question why the products are divided by gender. After all, soap is soap. The need for hair and skin depends on many factors, but gender is near the bottom of the list. As consumers become aware of this reality and the new generation of beauty shoppers are becoming increasingly gender-sensitive, in 2022 we will see brands prioritize gender inclusion in their launch and expansion plans.
According to marketing firm Wunderman Thompson, more than 50 percent of Gen Zers shop in beauty categories other than their gender, prompting some industry players to think outside the gender binary. “Until now, skin care and beauty [marketers] have largely spoken to women who present in a feminine way, which leaves a huge gap for anyone who doesn’t fit into that bucket,” says Shai Eisenman, CEO of skincare brand Bubble (launched in 2020), which says it’s “made for all”. “We’re pushing towards gender-positive messaging that’s inclusive because we believe it helps our consumers see themselves as they are and feel comfortable in their own skin,” says Eisenman. “For us, ‘everyone’ includes the full spectrum of gender identity: cis, trans and gender non-conforming people.
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Fenty was early on the scene when it came to gender inclusivity. When the brand launched Fenty Skin in 2020, Rihanna tweeted, “Whoever told you skincare has a gender, lied to you!” and that ethos has carried the brand’s marketing material through to this day. In December, M.A.C announced Keith Haring as a Viva Glam Ambassador, along with three special edition lipsticks – 100 percent of sales proceeds will go to M.A.C’s charity All Ages, All Races and All Genders. And the skincare brand Good Light, launched in March 2021, has a tagline: “beauty beyond the binary.”
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“There are people who understand that freeing makeup from patriarchal beauty standards is empowering for everyone. You don’t have to be a trans person or a non-binary person or a gay man who wears lipstick to understand that it’s an empowering form of self-expression and that none of us benefit from it , that you end up in these corners.”
Of course, gender-neutral products and marketing in beauty and personal care aren’t entirely new. CK One’s unisex scent was the quintessential 90s scent, and products from the Aesop (est. 1987) and Malin+Goetz (est. 2004) brands are meant to be worn by anyone. “We wanted to create treatments and products that are easy and uncomplicated that couples can share,” says Matthew Malin, co-founder of Malin+Goetz.
However, with deviations, gender-neutral brands and fragrances are becoming the new norm. Bathing Culture, a body care brand launched in 2016, saw huge demand for the unisex woody scent at the heart of its Mind and Body Wash product. When it launched its Cathedral Grove Perfume Oil in early November 2021, the roll fragrance had a waiting list of 1,000 people.
In the hair category, we also see a push towards a gender perspective. “The traditional ‘short hair for men, long hair for women’ — it just shouldn’t exist,” says Megan Andrews, founder of Barb, a new pomade brand for short hair. “We don’t have to have that binary.” Next year, the brand plans to expand with pomades specifically for those with a short, natural texture; hair powder; and beach spray. Meanwhile,
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Beauty luminary Jonathan Van Ness dropped his 10-product gender-neutral hair care line JVN Hair in August 2021 and is expanding with a product that can be used on either beard or hair.
Finally, makeup is clearly breaking away from its traditional target market of only cisgender women. “Adaptive, multi-use products that don’t conform to gender norms are opening categories of personal care and beauty for non-binary people that have previously been left out of the conversation by an industry operating within gender constructs,” says Jenni Middleton. beauty director of marketing company WGSN.
Case in point: We Are Fluide, a gender-inclusive makeup brand dedicated to empowering queer identity, features highly pigmented lipsticks, eyeshadows, and glitters in its marketing for cis, trans, and nonbinary people. Next up: The brand has plans to launch an inky black mascara that doesn’t sweat. Biodegradable glitter brand TooD Beauty also features video footage on its website of people of various genders wearing and wearing the brand’s chunky, ultra-bright loose glitters and smooth shimmers. In December, the brand will release glitter collections bundled in new XO GOGO mini bags. Not to mention, Harry Styles just dropped the all-gender Pleasing line, which includes a dual-ended lip oil eye serum, a luminizing serum, and a nail polish set.
Is the future of beauty open to all genders? “In some ways, I see gender inclusivity in the beauty space in the same frame as cruelty-free or clean beauty because it’s becoming a standard that all brands have to conform to,” says Laura Kraber. Founder of We Are Fluide. It’s a long way from the early days of pink soap marketing to cisgender women – and a long time ago. Back in the day, the beauty brand launched a very precise vision of its customers. He – and it was
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She was between the ages of 18 and 36, had a household income of $70,000 to $150,000, and was in control of her husband’s purchasing decisions (and that was
Husband). To get her attention, the brand featured only women in its campaigns and advertisements. All the models on its website and previously in its catalogs and print ads were female. It offered lipstick shades called “Go Girl.” It used gendered slogans. Women – and only women – were the people these brands wanted to attract.
That was the norm until a few months ago, when several new makeup and beauty brands emerged with a broader understanding of who their customers could be. While powerful brands like CoverGirl and Anastasia Beverly Hills launched campaigns featuring cis men starting in 2016, these new brands have now built on the idea that makeup exists for more than one demographic. In an increasingly inclusive beauty industry, new gender-neutral beauty brands like Jecca Makeup, Fluide, and Panacea are finding success by communicating to the world—through their spokespeople and smart marketing—that everyone, including cis women, cis men, and transgender, gender non-binary and gender-based individuals can be their customers and use their products.
Campaign for Fluide Beauty, one of the top three gender neutral makeup brands to launch in 2018
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In reality, of course, every make-up and beauty product can be – and has been – used by anyone regardless of gender expression. It’s not like eyeshadow disappears when worn on a man, or glossy lip gloss looks matte on a genderqueer person’s lips. But in a world where transgender, non-binary and gender nonconforming people can feel understandably uneasy about going to something as public as a department store makeup consultation, this new angle on the industry matters.
“The desire for gender-neutral spaces is not frivolous, it symbolizes a deeper, fundamental desire to belong to the world and feel
Scares the hell out of me. I have to give myself a little pep talk every time I want to go to Sephora to buy lipstick.”
Jessica Blacker, the founder of Jecca Makeup, saw a gap in the market while working as a make-up artist for TV and film in London. One day in 2015, Blackler received a message on Instagram from someone who was transitioning from male to female, and then began receiving similar messages from others on her website as well. “They wanted someone who accepted the community, and they couldn’t find that at the beauty counter at the local mall,” says Blackler. “If you walk into a department store, the people who help you are beautiful young women or handsome men and they feel like they don’t fit in.”
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Blackler began offering lessons to people who were moving to London, teaching them how to shape their faces with make-up and cover stubble. After getting 200 clients in just eight months, she opened her own makeup studio, which served as a safe space for her clients. When he moved to Cardiff, Wales, not only did the studio come with him, but he was also found by a few unlikely clients – notably inmates from the local men’s prison who wanted to transfer.
“I was at the local newspaper and an inmate found my article in the prison newsroom,” says Blackler. “The inmate put it under the door of one of the officers and then I was contacted for make-up lessons. After
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