The Latest Trends In Skincare – All linked products are independently selected by our editorial team. If you purchase one of these products, we may receive a commission.
2023 was certainly a year for fascinating skincare trends. We discovered “injectable lip balm,” embraced the concept of “skin sealing” as a dryness remedy, and learned new ways to apply sunscreen for the ultimate protection from harmful UVA and UVB rays. But if we’ve learned anything from the past few years, it’s that the world of skin care is constantly evolving.
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In the new year, our skin needs will undoubtedly change. (Think lots of post-party rest and lots of colder weather.) With that in mind, we asked dermatologists, estheticians, and skincare experts to reveal the most exciting—and effective—skincare trends they think will take over. Here’s everything you need to know to achieve your best skin ever in 2024.
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“Cleansing is underrated,” cosmetic chemist and skin care formulator Ron Robinson tells R29. “It’s an important part of your skincare routine.” More than just washing your face to remove makeup, effective daily cleansing is important because it removes oil, buildup, and toxins. If not removed, it can cause inflammation in the skin come.
With the focus this year on cleansing, we’ll see more cleansers designed with the effectiveness of skin care products we leave in, with formulations similar to what you’d find in essences or serums. From an ingredients perspective, Robinson cites silver as a key ingredient that we will find in cleansers as it has antibacterial properties but also repairs the function of the skin’s microbiome. Microsilver can be found in the BeautyStat Microbiome Barrier Repair Purifying Cleanser. Other innovative cleansing formulas include the Rhode Pineapple Refresh Cleanser, a gentle balm formula that uses exfoliating fruit enzymes and moisturizing polyglutamic acid to remove makeup and invisible residue without harshing the skin.
To reap the benefits of a good cleanser, leave the cleanser on your skin for more than 10 seconds. Maybe brush or floss your teeth before washing it off.
Robinson says peptides are becoming a gold standard ingredient for skin care, similar to vitamin C or retinol, whose effectiveness has been researched for years. Peptides are short-chain amino acids that are extremely versatile – different peptides perform different functions. For example, Robinson explains that the peptides used in Bieber’s Rhode line are specifically designed to repair the skin barrier (which is why her moisturizer is called Barrier Repair Cream). Next year we will see more peptides in skincare, particularly neuropeptides.
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“A neuropeptide is designed to target the muscles in our face and help them relax,” explains Robinson. Skin care does not have to penetrate the muscle to cause relaxation (this is how Botox works). Instead, the neuropeptide sends a signal to the muscle to tell it, in Robinson’s words, to “relax.” In the new Beautystat Peptide Wrinkle Relaxing Moisturizer you will find proprietary neuropeptides.
So many things can cause pigmentation on the skin, such as acne and breakouts (also known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation), sun exposure, and hormones, to name a few. This discoloration is caused by an increase in melanin, a natural substance in our body that produces pigments in skin and hair. The trained beautician Alicia Lartey and Dr. Ifeoma Ejikeme, Founder and Medical Director of Adonia Medical Clinic, say next year we can expect a host of new products with exciting ingredients that target pigmentation quickly and effectively.
“Given that I have a little insider knowledge of what brands will be launching next year, I think we can expect a lot of serums that focus on hyperpigmentation and actually solve the problem – and not vitamin C serums,” says Lartey. In fact, she recently told R29 that vitamin C is one of the worst skincare ingredients for combating severe pigmentation, especially for her black and brown clients. According to Lartey, there are other ingredients that do a much better job. First: kojic acid, which minimizes excess melanin and brightens skin. Secondly, azelaic acid, which is anti-inflammatory and improves skin tone. Thirdly, Alpha-Arbutin, which helps fade discoloration. Dr. Ejikeme reviews the skin care ingredient thiamidol, which controls excess pigment in the skin. “All products in the Eucerin Anti-Pigment range contain thiamidol, a powerful and patented ingredient that targets the cause of hyperpigmentation by reducing the appearance of dark spots,” says Dr. Ejikeme versus R29.
Retinol, derived from vitamin A, is a skincare ingredient beloved by dermatologists and estheticians alike—and for good reason: It’s particularly good for acne-prone skin, skin with discoloration, or for minimizing the appearance of fine lines. When used, it goes through a process where it is broken down by your skin cells to take effect, says Dr. Dev Patel, founder of CellDerma and advanced aesthetician at Perfect Skin Solutions. However, in 2024 we will see retinoids that work much faster and have fewer side effects such as discomfort and peeling skin.
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According to Dr. Patel Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (also known as HCP), which fits directly into your skin’s retinoid receptors and does not need to be broken down. “The effectiveness of HCP is far greater than that of 1% retinol and does not have the severe side effect profile associated with other retinoids,” says Dr. Patel, who adds that HCP reduces excessive oil production, minimizes the appearance of pores, prevents breakouts, and firms skin. “HCP serums are a must in 2024,” says Dr. Patel. “My favorite product is CellDerma Retin-ACE, which combines HCP with powerful antioxidants Vitamin C and E to leave skin feeling exceptionally smooth and radiant.” R29 also reviews The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion, The Inkey List Retinol Fine Lines and Wrinkles Serum and Murad Resurgence Retinol Youth Renewal Serum.
Don’t let the name put you off. Sustainably sourced growth factors—essentially skin-strengthening proteins—help stimulate cell repair and regeneration in the skin, explains Dr. Patel. They promote collagen and elastin production (we slowly lose both as we age). In 2023, the focus was on a particular growth factor: epidermal growth factor (EGF). Although it has a positive effect on plumping and smoothing the skin, says Dr. Patel that it has its limits. In 2024, he will recommend serums that contain:
Of growth factors in the right concentrations, each playing a unique role in improving skin elasticity, wound healing, acne control, hyperpigmentation and scar reduction, he says.
“In the clinic I use CellDerma GF5,” says Dr. Patel, which has five key growth factors. “This also includes neuropeptides [proteins] that act a little like botulinum toxin-A [also known as Botox], although milder.” A disadvantage? Products containing growth factors tend to be expensive. If you’re dying to try them out, consider Face Gym Supreme Restructure Firming EGF Collagen Boosting Cream or Drunk Elephant Protini Powerpeptide Resurf Serum. Try the Inkey List 15% Vitamin C and EGF Serum if you have less to spend and your skin can tolerate vitamin C. (The growth factors in all three of these products are derived from plants.)
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Niacinamide isn’t exactly a new ingredient, but it’s really proven its worth this year. So much so that Dr. Ejikeme predicts that skincare brands will continue to focus on this in 2024. She’s right—look out for a handful of new niacinamide serums from your cult-favorite skincare brands.
The Benefits of Niacinamide Are Endless: Dr. Ejikeme says it helps brighten skin, relieve redness, minimize the appearance of enlarged pores (by controlling excessive oil production), and reduce hyperpigmentation over time. If caring for your skin barrier is a priority for you, niacinamide is also known to prevent moisture from escaping the skin’s surface, which if ignored will eventually lead to dryness. In other words, it’s a great ingredient to get familiar with this winter and beyond.
Try Sunday Riley B3 Nice 10% Niacinamide Serum and Vichy Minéral 89 Probiotic Fractions Recovery Serum, both containing niacinamide and moisturizing glycerin. If you’d rather skip a step and go straight to a moisturizer, try Origins Ginzing Energizing Gel Cream with Caffeine + Niacinamide.
The scalp is an extension of the facial skin, so it stands to reason that we want to give it the same care. There’s no need for a 12-step skincare routine, but you might reap the benefits of incorporating an additional product or two into your shower routine. “Traditionally, most people don’t do anything to their scalp,” says Lartey, but brands are now increasingly focusing on chemical peels that have a positive effect on removing product buildup, cutting through oil, clearing clogged pores, and preventing acne on the scalp impact (yes, that is a problem). Thing). Forget glycolic acid for a moment. Salicylic acid—a beta-hydroxy acid, or BHA, that gently dissolves dirt, oil, and dead skin cells—is making its way into hair care, especially in pre-shampoo treatments. Try the Inkey List Salicylic Acid Oily Scalp Treatment or the Act + Acre BHA Salicylic Acid Scalp Renew Exfoliator. After washing, scalp care serums are a good choice, says Lartey. R29 recommends Revolution Haircare salicylic acid