Skin Renewal Routine – TikTok, the internet in general, many of our competitors… We don’t know exactly who’s to blame, but the fact is that skin care can seem really really complicated.
There is an idea that a skin care routine must include 16 steps or more serums, toners and special creams to be effective. That is not even remotely true.
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For many consumers, this misconception is paralyzing, confusing, and can completely overwhelm your skin, often doing far more harm than good. It can hurt your skin and your wallet.
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On the other hand, most dermatologists advocate simple and short skin care routines. So today we simplify, with a clear and concise explanation of the ideal skin care routine steps.
In this post, we’ll touch on the complicated science behind the “simple skincare” philosophy, but mainly focus on how to put together an effective, easy-to-follow skincare routine that does your skin nothing but goodness while helping look your best!
If you’re just here for the basics, with no time to waste on long, boring explanations, we’ve got you covered—here’s the closest thing to a universally ideal skincare routine. All other routines are just simple variations of this depending on your skin care concerns.
Why use a treatment? What the hell do we mean by clinically effective skin care? If you find yourself asking these questions, this section is for you! If you couldn’t care less, feel free to skip it.
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Basically, in the world of science-based skin care, there are three main approaches and reasons why you might be interested in each:
Do you have super sensitive skin? Just getting started with skin care? You don’t need to spend a lot of money or drown in complications. The best basic skin care routine is boring, very mild, and fairly inexpensive.
Expensive ingredients aren’t any better, and these days, you can find a ton of simple, yet effective, fragrance-free, dermatologist-tested products at the drugstore. We are big fans of Vanicream.
That said, the routine can be simple and non-irritating, while still incorporating active ingredients that have real skin benefits.
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The best way to do this is by adding one key serum or treatment per skincare session (ie your night or day skincare routine) to an otherwise basic routine.
This is ideal if you want to see specific results, such as brighter skin, reduced wrinkles, fewer breakouts, or anything else.
Any guesses about what we think of trendy 7-step skincare routines? You guessed it – we’re not fans.
This kind of routine can promote skin renewal or help target certain skin problems, but it can be incredibly irritating to the skin. Plus, irritation can set back your progress because your skin has to work hard to repair itself.
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In other cases (and it depends on the specific products), too many steps can dilute the effects of all the important ingredients in your routine. We can’t count how many times our customers have told us, “My routine is the simplest it’s ever been and my skin has never looked better.”
Now that you understand the premise behind the main skin care philosophies, let’s apply these basics so you can create your own simple yet effective skin care routine.
We think night is the best time to let your skincare routine be a little more involved. Here’s a guide to the most important steps in your nighttime skin care routine.
We tend to think of cleaning as basic – it’s basic hygiene! But as dermatologists will tell you, it’s also one of those steps that has the most potential to damage or irritate the skin.
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Most people cleanse more often than they really need to, and in a way that greatly disrupts the skin’s microbiome and barrier functions. If you don’t wear makeup often or are extremely acne-prone, daily cleansing may not be necessary at all.
There’s a lot of room for error with something as basic as a cleanser. And actually, you definitely don’t want a basic cleanser—at least not when it comes to pH. Cleansers with a more alkaline pH (ie, basic) can raise the skin’s pH, disrupting its lipid layer and making it an inviting environment for bad bacteria.
Other factors to watch out for are cleansers that are simply too drying and stripping (that “squeaky clean” feeling is a good sign that the cleanser is too harsh) or that contain abrasive cleansers that scratch rather than exfoliate.
When in doubt, we suggest going with a mild, cheap, and dull drugstore cleanser. Buy from brands that position themselves as dermatologist recommended and suitable for sensitive skin.
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If your skin is oily or acne-prone, medicated cleansers with salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide can help unclog pores.
If your main concerns are related to skin smoothing or brightening, an AHA cleanser can help “stick” dead skin cells to encourage skin renewal and increase the effectiveness of ingredients like retinol. This is called exfoliation and is optional in every skin care routine. That said, it can be incredibly beneficial as long as you opt for a chemical exfoliant like AHA, as opposed to physical exfoliants that are highly abrasive to the skin.
Some cleansers (especially oil-based ones) work best when the skin is dry, while others (gel and foam-based ones) work better when the skin is moist.
If you have nothing to treat, you can skip this step. But let’s be real, most people who develop a skin care routine have something specific they’re trying to fix or improve.
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The three most common concerns are skin aging, breakouts, and dark marks. You can find products to address those issues with any step in your skin care routine, but water-based serums usually work as the best delivery system.
When developing our line, we quickly came to the conclusion that retinaldehyde (aka retinal), a more bioactive version of retinol, was the best ingredient to visibly address the most common skin concerns. This includes fine lines and wrinkles, dark spots, large pores and signs of breakouts. That’s why it’s the main ingredient in our enzyme-activated retinol serum, along with several skin-supporting ingredients like niacinamide and gluconolactone.
When skin is well moisturized, science shows that it acts as a better barrier. Since being a barrier is your skin’s main job, this is a key way to prevent damage and ensure optimal functions. Plus, when skin is hydrated and functioning properly, it simply looks significantly better.
For a deep dive into how to REALLY hydrate your skin, see our post on transepidermal water loss and how to prevent it.
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In the short term, hydration increases skin’s surface levels, making it feel softer, look smoother, and help reduce the appearance of fine lines. In the long run, moisturizing preserves the skin to keep it even and youthful.
A good moisturizer should help your skin retain water. That’s why it’s best to moisturize right after you shower, when your skin is saturated with water just waiting to evaporate. By moisturizing, you’re basically locking that water into your skin.
If your skin is dry, it’s important to find a moisturizer with effective occlusives. Occlusives act as a sealing layer, preventing moisture from evaporating from the skin. Research shows that the best occlusion is petroleum jelly (that’s right – the stuff that petroleum jelly is made of), but there are more pleasant options like silicones, squalane, and stearic acid.
Look for these ingredients near the top of the ingredient list on any moisturizer you’re considering buying—you’ll find that often, cheaper moisturizers can deliver these ingredients in higher concentrations than the more expensive ones!
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If your skin is oily, you may find that very occlusive moisturizers feel too heavy. However, dimethicone is a great, silky occlusive that feels quite dry on the skin. Look for moisturizers with lighter textures, dimethicone or squalane for occlusion, and plenty of moisture-attracting moisturizers that will also help prevent transepidermal water loss.
If you want more transformative results, you’ll want a moisturizer designed to do more than just hydrate. For example, our Hyaluronic Acid and Niacinamide Hydrating Cream has a firm renewing formula. It’s made with niacinamide, which is a multi-purpose antioxidant that soothes the skin while supporting the effects of powerful actives like retinol.
It is highly effective as a moisturizer, with a blend of silky fatty acids and fatty alcohols for occlusion. It also includes high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, which acts like a sponge, holding a thousand times its weight in water to directly hydrate the skin, while also helping to further reduce fine lines and wrinkles.
The ideal morning skin care routine is to protect the skin from sun exposure, pollution and other sources of oxidative damage.
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If your skin is quite oily or you exercise before doing your AM skincare routine, then cleansing in the morning might be for you. Choose a gentle cleanser that has a low pH, doesn’t strip too much, and doesn’t leave your skin feeling tight.
If your skin is dry or sensitive, it’s better to avoid cleansing – the last thing your skin needs is to remove the few lipids it produced the night before. Sprinkling your face with water is enough to feel refreshed
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